Do you like that thing your Iphone photos does? I’m talking about the small highlight reel it creates
with specific places, people, or holidays. A regular one of mine seems to be ‘round the table’ and it’s
no surprise that all it shows me is photos of food spreads– something which was already substantial to
begin with but has only increased since working with Pasta Grannies.
This week? It won’t stop reminding me that around a year ago I was in Cinque Terre to round off my summer of adventure in Italy.
Italian seaside villages get their fair share of love but why have one picturesque village when you can have five?
That’s what Cinque Terre has on offer — Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. Each little fishing village clings to the rocky coastline like barnacle refusing to let go. No matter how high the sea splashes, how much the rain pours, how hot the weather gets, these villages continue to serve locals and tourists alike.
My top suggestion? Try to visit off peak season if possible; from June through to August it’s almost impossible to move through the narrow streets in each village. And if you’re active (and good knees permitting) I think the most beautiful way to see the coastline is to get within it and among it and take a long hike between the villages. It’s steep but worth the pain for the views on offer. Pack a backpack with your bikini and a change of clothes ready as each village has idyllic swim spots with ladders plopping straight down into the water– just be prepared that you’ll be a floating dot in the guided tour’s selfie-stick pictures.
When I visited, I stayed in Corniglia hiking one way to Monterosso al Mare on day one and then hitching the boat back the same the other way to Riomaggiore. Hikes were well fuelled with fresh juices and glasses of wine in the trees and vineyards between Vernazza and Monterosso al Mare (tip: try Bar Gabbiano and rest your weary feet between the vines).
While decadent lunches of fish and one too many glasses of wine were the carb-loading needed to get from Manahttp://maggrola to Riomaggiore. Each village offers something different, from Monterosso’s old school ‘bagno’ feel decorated with matching striped umbrellas, or Rio Maggiore’s trendy-looking travellers-types; sipping beers on the rocks at sunset.
We joined them then and jumped on the train back Corniglia before sobering up with the hill climb up from the station to have dinner at Enoteca Il Pirun. Some fantastic filled-pistachio pasta. And if you fancy getting even further off the beaten track? Why not check out Tellaro and Fiascherino.
I’m not the only Cinque Terre fan in the team. Linda also loves the place and her boyfriend is from there. Want real local recommendations? She’s probably the best person to ask. She never travels without at least a daily Aperol spritz and her favourite aperitivo place is in Manarola called Nessun Dorma.
It’s located at the highest point in Manarola, and provides amazing panoramic views of the village’s colourful houses and the Ligurian coastline. It doesn’t accept bookings and chances are you will probably have to queue for a bit, but it’s definitely worth it!
Monterosso has the only sandy beaches in Cinque Terre. She recommends il Gigante. And when you’ve worked up an appetite from splashing in the crystal blue waters? Head to Gastronomia San Martino. Here you will be able to eat local pastas, focaccias and other Ligurian dishes in a cozy, family-run place. For lunch, make a trip to Focacceria il Frantoio. Secure some farinata; especially the local delicacy, one with stracchino cheese.
Cinque Terre might actually be a myth. Why? Real locals talk about 6th “terra” (thank goodness for Linda, eh?).
The 6th terra is known as Bonassola and it’s only a stop away from Monterosso. Linda, with her inside local scoop says it’s the best because it’s less touristy, has more (and better) beaches. Plus, thanks to the smaller crowds it’s less expensive but doesn’t compromise on the charm.
If you’re struggling to find places to stay and fancy a short train ride to start your day, then opt to sleep in La Spezia, the first big city after the villages. Actually, if you’re staying the other areas of the Cinque Terre, it could end up being a shorter commute as Riomaggiore is only a 5 minute train ride away.
Some of our favourite filming trips have been here too. Andrea and Livia often reminisce about the
time they filmed 89 year old Licia making tagliatelle del contadino, with beans and kale. She has the
most amazing view from her house, and you can watch her video here. They also filmed fisherman Guido and son Pietro making spaghetti ai frutti di mare in Corniglia. They run a fish-to-plate Agriturismo, and the name of their boat is SP4488. If you happen to be in Corniglia, Liguria. You can find them on them out on Instagram. And to get in on the action before then, watch their video.
Cinque Terre continues to be famous because of the five-village variety and non-stop winding coastal views. We’ve always loved it and we’re happy to see any nonnas of the region getting the love they deserve.
As the region and the location grows in popularity it’s got attention from large storytellers like Disney who have realised some of the magic in films like Pixar’s Luca. The story follows adorable Luca and best friend Alberto explore summer on land while trying to keep their sea monster identity beneath the surface. The coming-of-age story follows their adventures during a summer and it’s
filled with plenty of characterful nonnas and nonnos, as well as full with great depictions of pasta
and great cooking, blending elements of fantasy and adventure, and baked in with a whole lot of love.
In fact, our nonnas were famous featured at the time.
Have you been to Cinque Terre or other areas of coastal Ligura? If so, share your travel stories with us. We’d love to know.
