Giulina’s Risi e Bisi

Giulina’s name was a misspelling of Giulia by the registrar in charge of recording births in Venice. She has kept the erroneous ’n’ for the fun of it. Before she retired she had a career catering for the primary school children of Venice; apparently her pasta and beans was a favourite. But she is also famous for her risi e bisi, or rice and peas, a dish which is typical of the Veneto region. She lives in Murano, an island just a short ferry ride from Venice. It is a small, crocheted vegetative blanket of market gardening, laden with produce and struggling to stay afloat in the lagoon. It’s where Giulina sources her organic peas; she thinks organically grown ones are essential because you want to make a stock from the pods. This makes it a seasonal treat! We spent a jolly afternoon with Giulina and her friends who dropped by, discovering Venetian women are welcoming, earthy, love a good laugh and the chance to celebrate. So we all had a glass of wine and within minutes, it was a risi e bisi impromptu party!

Ingredients

  • 1kg peas in the pods – or alternatively 600g frozen peas
  • 1 onion, finely diced
  • 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 4 heaped tablespoons finely chopped parsley
  • 320g risotto rice, preferably Vialone Nano, or Carnaroli is great too
  • 40g unsalted butter
  • 60g grated Parmigiano Reggiano
  • Salt

Method

  • Shell the peas, and place the pods in a saucepan with plenty of water. Cover, and simmer gently for around an hour until they’re very soft. Or use a pressure cooker to speed up the process. Scoop out the pods and pass them through a food mill, scraping the resulting puree back into the water to create the stock. Season with salt to taste and keep warm in a saucepan over a low heat.
  • Note: If you don’t have access to fresh peas and their pods, you can use frozen ones instead. Place 1.2 litres of water with 300g of peas into a saucepan and bring them to a boil with 4g – or two heavy pinches – of salt. Cover the pan and and cook the peas for 8 minutes.
    Allow them to cool for a couple of minutes and then purée everything until very smooth. You can do with a food mill as above for best texture, or use a blender.
  • Soften the onion with a pinch of salt in the olive oil in a sauté pan over a medium heat. This will take around 5- 7 minutes over a medium heat. Add the rice and fresh peas: how many is up to you; it doesn’t have to be all of the ones you shelled. Sauté the mixture for a few minutes until the grains are semi translucent.
  • Add half the parsley; keep frying, season with salt, and then start adding in the pea stock 2 large ladlefuls at a time. Add more when the rice starts to dry out.
  • You’re aiming for a sloppy risotto. Once the rice is cooked – it should be al dente but not chalky in the middle – take the pan off the heat and stir in the rest of the parsley, the butter and Parmigiano.
  • Let it rest for another 3 to 5 minutes; if it thickens up too much, stir in a little more stock.
  • Serve with more cheese and black pepper if you like.
  • Buon Appetito!

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