Shall we tell you an Italian joke? What begins with M and is rumoured not to exist? Molise.
The Italian region neighbouring Abruzzo (and the butt of many a Nonna’s joke) is said to be so elusive that even Italians nearby claim not to know where it is. Somewhere between Central and Southern Italy, between Abruzzo’s peaks and Campania’s plains, Molise seems to have slipped through the cracks. So? As a team of off-the-beaten-track Italophiles, we decided to take it on for ourselves.
Molise officially became its own region on 27 December 1963, making it Italy’s twentieth region. But, like the wonderful grandmothers who live there, Molise doesn’t mind a bit of teasing. In fact, it wears it as a badge of honour. And after years of laughing along with the joke, we finally visited; at the tail end of our Abruzzo trip; and felt rather silly for having waited so long.
Because, as it turns out, Molise may be small and little-known, but it packs as much flavour and beauty as anywhere else in Italy. Rolling hills, scattered farms, friendly locals, and even friendlier wildlife greeted us. Filming there in October, it was still warmer than back in the UK, so of course, we stocked up on treats; including salami, torroncini, and cheese.
While here we met Adriana, an 80-year-old Nonna who made lasagne in brodo for us, a comforting dish of lasagne sheets served in chicken broth, prepared the traditional way. Adriana had lived eight years in the UK before returning to Italy’s “hidden” region. To our surprise, she spoke perfect English and even offered her own translations during filming; she was a real Nonna-of-all-trades.
In Fossalto, we filmed inside Gelateria Italia. It’s a beloved pasticceria, which is not only famous for its artisan gelati but also golden torroncini (small nougat bites) and other typical sweets being prepared. Though the weather was still mild, the Christmas spirit was already in the air with these small nougat bites; a festive bestseller made with patience, almonds, and plenty of local pride.
Further south in Riccia, while filming Nonna Pasqualina, who insisted we try her biscotti after the pasta, we recorded the recipe for the website here so you can try them too. We also met a butcher at the Salumificio Riccese (a sausage factory). Giosuè Napoletano, the owner, and his friendly brothers are local masters of pork who craft sausages and salami. They did a little demonstration for us.
Driving through Molise was truly a spectacle. The sky was cloudy as we wound through the mountains, and the mist clinging to the peaks created an almost surreal, dreamlike atmosphere. We’ve visited many off-the-beaten-path places in Italy, but we have to say, Molise is the most hidden and sparkling of hidden gems. My favourite views included the “Perla of Molise”; the town of Bagnoli del Trigno, which is perched on a rocky edge overlooking the valley of the Trigno River. It’s dramatic and distinctive.
And for a region that supposedly doesn’t exist, Molise is certainly full of life; long life. Not only did we make friends with livestock and animals (it is always Livia our Granny Finder’s modus operandi). We found out that as of January 2025, it boasts some of Italy’s highest longevity rates: around 61 centenarians for every 100,000 residents. That’s a lot of 100th birthday candles. We were blown away by those we visited and their hospitality. Almost every Nonna we filmed welcomed us by preparing lunch, and we got to sit down and eat alongside their family and friends. That kind of open house and open-heart policy, not to mention the delicious food, is probably why they all live a long life.
So yes, despite the jokes, Molise does exist; very much so. And we’ve got the videos, the stories, and the full bellies to prove it. It might not warrant a trip on its own, but if you’re visiting Abruzzo, make sure to stop by. You’ll find that the joke’s on anyone who doesn’t.
Liked this? Why not see what else we’ve been up to on our travels recently in Abruzzo. For more longer reads from our travels, diaries entries, and off-the-beaten-track tips, visit our blog.
