There’s an unassuming little shack fronted kafenion opposite the Vodafone shop in Acharavi, Corfu – which everyone calls Iannis but I’m not sure that’s the proper name – and it serves up mezethes in the old fashioned way. Small plates of deliciousness arrive unbidden with whatever drink you happen to have ordered. Their marinated fresh anchovies are the best, though they’re not always available and you may have to ask for them. They arrive soused in local olive oil, chunks of fresh garlic and – this is the killer ingredient – pickled green chilli. These chillies aren’t super hot – they add crunch, warmth and acidity – and I couldn’t tell you what variety they are, but they showcase the delicate sweetness of the fish wonderfully. It’s something to consider next time you are presented with a bowl of caught-that-day anchovies.